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When it comes to fashion, few cities can compete with New York City. However, Philadelphia, a neighbor to the fashion capital of the world, has been trying for years to make a lasting impression on the cutthroat multi-billion dollar industry.
With Fishtown emerging recently as the hub for artistic individuals, it comes as no surprise that some residents of this community have invested their careers in fashion.
One of those making this investment is Nicole Rae Styer whose designing career dates back to her childhood days when she was sewing her own Barbie clothes. She began selling her unique designs as early as high school, and after graduating from The University of the Arts in Philadelphia, she moved to Fishtown to pursue a career as a fashion designer. Since she was no stranger to the market, it was clear that she would make this her livelihood.
“I love being my own boss and working for myself,” Styer said. “I don’t mind working crazy long hours if it’s for myself. It’s definitely a lot of hard work doing mostly everything on my own, but I love it and I wouldn’t have it any other way.”
Luckily, Styer’s studio and office are located on the second floor of her Fishtown home. Her designs fill the converted bedroom as if it were one over-sized closet, fully equipped with work desk, computer and sewing machine.
“I love having my studio at home,” Styer said. “There’s no overhead since I live here. Plus, I can work here 24/7, start sewing early in the morning and not have to worry about going home at a certain time.”
But Styer’s designs are not limited to the Philadelphia area. Her garments and accessories are sold at about 50 boutiques across the country. She notes that at times, it can be a lot work. But, she can always turn to her family for help, even to her grandmother who’s in charge of cutting up fabric scraps for appliqués.
“It’s mostly me here doing everything for the business, but here and there I have a few interns who help me out, and my family is super supportive,” she notes. “My fiancé helps me out whenever I need it. With all the sewing, shows and different events, it’s a lot of work.”
Fashion is also the focus of Fishtown resident Esme Iglarsh. She discovered her passion for the art of fashion after viewing a Vivienne Westwood exhibit at the Baltimore Museum of Art. As a result, Iglarsh created “Wearable Sculpture” for her Visual Arts senior thesis at Antioch College, and after returning from a semester studying fashion at the Paris Fashion Institute, Iglarsh earned a second Bachelor’s degree from Philadelphia University.
After working several years for others, Iglarsh decided that she had learned enough about the business to begin her own. She began “Plan-it EJ,” as a popular and much-needed service in the area.
“I do any kind of alteration or custom garments,” Iglarsh said. “I can create what is in someone’s mind or I can change a current garment into something else like a leather jacket into a purse. I also do things as small as re-attaching buttons or hemming pants. I have been doing this off and on for many years, but I haven’t tried to do it seriously until a few months ago.”
Iglarsh’s mission is to provide a service to the community.
“In the harder economic period, I feel people want to maintain the clothes they own or change how these clothes look, and I can help them do this at a more affordable price,” she said.
Although Iglarsh’s business is not presently something she can make a living off of, she foresees its profitability. Until then, Iglarsh plans to have fun and enjoy this hobby while making some money off of her talent.
“I truly enjoy the creativity and being able to take a clients mental picture and make it a reality,” she said.
Fashion photographer, art director and Fishtown resident Vera Icon immigrated to the United States from Europe with her family at a young age. Raised in a creative household, Icon established a passion for art and knew early on that she would have a career in the arts.
“I decided to concentrate on portraiture, fashion and beauty photography because it allows for more creativity,” Icon said. “I have a background as an art director and graphic designer, so it seemed more natural for me to merge the two.”
Icon starting shooting at the age of 18, beginning with concert photography, but not until recently has she considered her work a business.
“I spent a long time figuring out what it was I wanted to do, so I think that is why I didn’t really take it seriously as a business for awhile,” Icon notes. “Some photographers are an overnight hit, others take 10-15 years to accumulate a base of clients that they can consider lucrative. Personally, I am just getting there right now.”
While owning your own business may seem fun, it is not for everyone.
“Working for yourself requires a lot of discipline and organization,” Icon said. “If you don’t have it, well, I assume it can’t be good. I can have flexibility in a workday, but it’s like going to work every day and then more. There is more work with your own business and it takes significantly more time.”
“While hours are flexible, and I can be selective about who my clients are, there are some drawbacks,” Iglarsh notes. “There are no benefits, like health care, and since I’m not on a salary, there is no steady pay.”
Fortunately, Styer’s business is rewarding enough to keep her optimistic.
“I don’t know if there are any disadvantages to having my own business, I love it!” she said. “I think it’s pretty much all positive, and you have to stay positive too to keep on going in this industry.”
According to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, fashion designers held about 22,700 jobs in 2008, with only a one percent employment increase predicted for 2018. While 43 percent of designers worked for apparel manufacturers and merchant wholesalers, the other 56 percent are self-employed. Furthermore, photographers held about 152,000 jobs, more than half self-employed, with a 12 percent predicted increase within the next eight years. But while designers are estimated to make an annual profit of $61,160, photographers fall behind with an average yearly salary of $29,440.
The Fishtown Neighborhood Business Directory and Recourse Guide lists 13 clothing stores and 16 photography companies; however, Styer, Iglarsh and Icon are not listed. So, how does one gain recognition in an area flourishing with talented competition?
“I can’t even tell you how successful I’ve become through Facebook and MySpace,” Styer said. “I’ll post a picture of one of my designs and within hours get an interested buyer. We’ll settle on a price and then they pay me via PayPal.”
Icon has branched out beyond Philadelphia. “There are a lot of photographers, but I don’t see them as competition,” said Icon, winner of the Masters Cup 2009 in fashion photography. “My work is different than those in Philadelphia and one has to remember that clients are all over the world, not just those in this city.”
For a $50 annual membership fee, Fishtown residents can also join the Fishtown Area Business Association to network with other local business owners, to gain potential clients and customers and to explore resources and opportunities for growth.
As Philadelphia continues to develop a more noticeable fashion scene, Fishtown residents are happy to provide their talents and services, especially Styer. “This is my life. Everything is fashion.”
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