In East Kensington, a neighborhood facing rapid gentrification, community-driven restaurants have emerged as vital social spaces, helping to bridge the gap between long-time residents and newer arrivals. Local spots like OG’s Pizza, Little Walter’s, Forin Café, and Philadelphia Brewing Company have become more than places to eat—they’ve become hubs for building connections. Josh Graff, both a resident and a board member of the East Kensington Neighbors Association (EKNA), emphasized how these businesses work to maintain accessibility and preserve the neighborhood’s character, even as rising rents and changing demographics bring challenges. Despite the pressures of gentrification, these heart-driven restaurants continue to foster a sense of community and belonging.
Community-driven businesses can create a space for everyone. Is not only the food but the ambiance and the people that enhance the atmosphere, allowing connections between newer neighbors, long-term residents, or even people who just come by. Meeting at Forin Café on Frankford Avenue wasn’t planned. The interview itself was, but the choice to sit down for coffee helped dive deeper into how food can connect people, even over something as simple as a regular hot coffee.
It was 2:30 p.m., and as the café neared closing time, the conversation with Josh Graff, accountant secretary of the East Kensington Neighbors Association (EKNA), showed no signs of slowing. Graff was eager to discuss the changes shaping the community he now calls home. Originally from upstate New York, he spent years in Boston before moving to East Kensington in 2021. His passion for the neighborhood was evident as he talked over coffee, wearing a red EKNA t-shirt with “Derby Volunteer” printed on the front, signaling his deep involvement in the community.
Graff, sipping his coffee from a transparent mug, discussed the initiatives the community was preparing to tackle. He coined the term “Fish-washing” to explain how many people simplify East Kensington as an extension of its better-known neighbor, Fishtown. Despite their proximity, Graff noted, the two neighborhoods are often seen as the same because of their trendy restaurants and community-driven businesses. But East Kensington, he emphasized, has a distinct identity, and its local restaurants are a big part of that uniqueness.
However, East Kensington is no stranger to the effects of gentrification. The area saw a 7% population growth from 2000 to 2017, with increases in Hispanic and African American residents. With the neighborhood becoming a competitive real estate market, the New Kensington Community Development Corporation (NKCDC) has worked to counter displacement by promoting affordable housing projects and organizing local residents. Despite these efforts, income disparities remain stark, with Fishtown’s median income at $56,508 and Orinoka Mills at $27,546, creating challenges for businesses that must cater to both higher- and lower-income residents.
This distinction is reflected in the neighborhood’s restaurant scene, which spans a wide range of dining experiences. Trendy new spots like Picnic, backed by larger restaurant groups, bring ambitious, high-concept dining to the area. In contrast, newer establishments like Little Walter’s—recently named one of The New York Times’ 50 Favorite Restaurants in America for 2024—have adapted to community feedback. Initially viewed as too expensive for the neighborhood, Little Walter’s responded by introducing an affordable happy hour, offering pierogies, cocktails, and beer at reasonable prices.
Graff also emphasized the role of “third spaces” like Philadelphia Brewing Company, Forin Café, Post Haste, and OG’s Pizza. He believes that these businesses are more than just places to grab a meal—they’ve become essential community hubs where people come together to socialize, relax, and engage with one another. “Half the businesses in East Kensington seem to embrace this role,” Graff noted, highlighting how many owners are deeply involved in their day-to-day operations, fostering strong connections with the community.
As East Kensington continues to change, these heart-driven restaurants act as social hubs, helping bridge the gap between long-time residents and newer ones. Despite the pressures of rising rents and gentrification, the area’s businesses remain committed to creating spaces that serve everyone, keeping the neighborhood’s sense of unity alive.
What are some of EKNA’s main priorities in addressing the challenges of gentrification
while fostering a sense of community?
Our meetings are open to all, and we use that accessibility to help bridge gaps in the community and address the challenges and alienation that gentrification can bring. We also invest in public spaces and greenery, such as programming at Pop’s Park and collaborating with the New Kensington Community Development Corporation to improve the park at Frankford and Susquehanna avenues. We sponsor a mini-grant program open to all, awarding six to nine grants annually for $500 each to help reinvest in the community. We are organizing and funding our newly formed arts committee, which aims to bring free art and events to the neighborhood. Our only city-mandated requirement as a registered community organization is to host zoning meetings. These meetings provide an opportunity to advocate for affordable housing units and amenities through community benefit agreements. While combating the negative effects of gentrification is beyond the scope of our small organization, we strive to ensure this diverse neighborhood remains accessible to all residents
How have local restaurants in East Kensington changed over the years?
I feel like the neighborhood has changed a lot in a short time, even just since I’ve been here. There’s been a big shift with openings and closings—it’s kind of like whiplash. For example, Forin is new since I moved here, and the place next door is new too. Also, I think Picnic is a big bellwether of change in the neighborhood. It represents a shift—whether it’s positive or negative is probably a mix of both—but it feels like a new caliber of restaurant has come in. It’s a very ambitious concept. I actually really like them; I think they’re great. They’re priced higher than places that have been here for a while, but having a big restaurant group take a risk on a neighborhood like this says a lot. We’re already seeing the effects of that, with places like Martha’s closing and other restaurants in the area being affected. From what I’ve heard from friends and some folks in the industry, I think rent was a big factor. I can’t officially confirm that, but it seems to have played a significant role, and it happened so fast. I expected to see change in the neighborhood, like more ambitious or well-known places coming in, but I didn’t expect it to be so quick, especially losing a neighborhood staple like Martha’s, which has been here for over a decade. Another example is Hello Donuts closing.
Do you think that new restaurants have affected the cost of living in the area?
Gentrification is complex and influenced by many factors, but ultimately, the cost of living is determined by who owns or builds the properties. Developers and landlords set the pace. Most businesses here rent, and on Frankford Avenue, they often get a decent deal because there are more vacancies, especially this far north. It’s different in Fishtown, where commercial space is more competitive. In a way, I feel like new businesses are more of a symptom than a driver of change. Places like Martha and Philadelphia Brewing Company help define the neighborhood. People may not know East Kensington, but they know those spots. So, businesses can be catalysts for change, even driving up rents. Gentrification is tricky—anything positive in a neighborhood, like EKNA, can be seen as contributing to it because making a place more appealing can lead to higher rents and displacement. So, in fact, it’s a multifaceted issue.
How do you think restaurants in East Kensington are addressing affordability, and do you
feel they offer meals that are accessible to a wide range of residents?
Affordability is really important, especially now with inflation making everything feel so expensive. A lot of places in the neighborhood have done a good job staying affordable, but I’m starting to see some places get pricier and maybe less accessible for everyone. It’s so important for businesses to meet people where they are. I was on the board of a food co-op, and it was tough because the grocery stores already run on thin margins, and focusing on organic, locally sourced products which made products even more expensive. So, in fact, health is really tied to expense, and as rent goes up, offering affordable options gets harder, which I think is a big part of gentrification.
In what ways do you believe restaurants in East Kensington are helping to bring people
together and foster a sense of community?
Yes, I definitely want to shout out one business in particular, and that’s PhiladelphiaBrewing Company. They’ve been real champions of the community, and I consider them community stewards. Of course, it’s literally where we meet every month—how many community organizations can say they meet on the second floor of a brewery? It’s great. They really put their money where it matters, too. They’ve been here longer than almost any other small business in the neighborhood. They also let us sell beer at our biggest fundraiser of the year, the Kinetic Arts Derby, which happens every May. It’s a huge event where people make human-powered vehicles, and it’s our biggest fundraiser of the year. It originally started in Baltimore, but now it’s a major part of our community. So, the money we make is almost all profit at the end of the day. For example, we might pay them a couple thousand dollars, but we end up making around $20,000. For a small community organization like ours, that’s everything. We’re able to give that money back to the community as quickly as possible through our programs, mini-grants, and the Arts Committee. Philadelphia Brewing Company has always been a strong supporter of the community. I also think PBC is still affordable for what they offer as a brewery. It feels accessible—everyone in the neighborhood goes there, regardless of how long they’ve lived here or their socioeconomic status. It feels like a house party, a community meetup space. On a good day, you’ll see the picnic tables packed with people, dogs, kids—it just feels like a true community hub.
How do you think the new restaurants in the neighborhood are attracting younger
residents compared to longtime residents? Are they catering more to one group over the
other?
I think it’s important to acknowledge that when a neighborhood changes, it often feels like it’s catering to either the people moving into the area or those already here. But I think there are some places that really thread the needle and offer something for everyone. Take the local pizza shops, for example. OG Pizzas, right across the street here, is a great community hub. It’s like the go-to neighborhood pizza spot, and it feels like everyone, no matter who they are, goes there. They’ve reopened since the pandemic, and I think they’ve done a great job. It’s well-priced, feels accessible, and it brings people together. Everyone seems to go there on a Friday night to get their pies, and it’s just one of those places that feels like it’s for everyone. I feel like it gets rave reviews from all over the city, but it still has that neighborhood joint vibe. So yeah, I think there are definitely businesses that cater to everyone, even if the neighborhood might generally feel like it’s skewing toward newer residents. But there are still plenty of places that manage to bring together both new and long-time residents, for sure.
What could local restaurants do to better serve better both new and longtime residents?
Honestly, I don’t think businesses alone can be the binder for community, but connecting to the community is so important. A lot of businesses around here do a great job of linking up with local arts or vendors, and you see a lot of community markets happening. One of the biggest things I’ve noticed is how businesses collaborate with each other, which really helps lift everyone up. Getting involved in the community, like Philadelphia Brewing Company does, is key. A new place like Little Walter’s is another great example. When they first opened, some people thought they might be too expensive for the neighborhood, but they listened to the feedback. Coming from Massachusetts, where happy hours are banned, I was surprised to see them adjust with a really affordable happy hour. You can get pierogies, cocktails, and beer at reasonable prices, which makes them more accessible. It’s a smart way to offer something that caters to everyone. I don’t want to call out any businesses, but there are definitely places where the owner is never physically there, and they’re not as invested in the community. Maybe they have a manager running things, but they’re not boots on the ground. Here at Forin, I see Kyle all the time. And when I go next door to Post Haste, I see Gabe and Fred every time. These are people who have a true stake in the neighborhood—they’re working, meeting the community, and building relationships. That’s how you build community as a business. It’s not just about making money. Yes, you want to support yourself and your family, but you also want to be present. You want to be the person serving coffee and asking, ‘How’s everything going?’ That’s how you create real connections.
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