Anchoring Community: How East Kensington’s Local Eateries Foster Belonging Amid Gentrification

In Philadelphia’s East Kensington, restaurants aren’t just places to grab a meal—they’re the heart of the community, bridging the gap between old and new residents and holding onto the threads of a neighborhood identity that’s under constant strain. Local spots like Philadelphia Brewing Co., OG Pizza, Little Walter’s, and Forin Cafe go beyond simply serving food; they’re creating spaces where everyone feels they belong. In an era of rising rents and shifting demographics, these businesses keep East Kensington grounded, welcoming neighbors with a sense of familiarity and warmth. They bring people together over shared tables and conversations, offering both affordable meals and a reminder that community values still matter, even as the neighborhood transforms.

First, we may start with a truth often overlooked: East Kensington, overshadowed by its trendier neighbor Fishtown, struggles to have its unique identity recognized. Many residents feel the area’s character is lost in sweeping generalizations that label it as part of Kensington. Josh Graff, a board member of the East Kensington Neighbors Association (EKNA) and a resident since 2021, refers to this phenomenon as “Fish-washing.”

Graff explained that this oversimplification ignores something essential: the community-driven restaurants shaping East Kensington’s identity and providing spaces for residents—old and new—to come together, connect, and build something truly local. EKNA’s efforts to maintain East Kensington’s unique identity emphasize the importance of local businesses in strengthening community bonds.

“Third spaces are very important for forming bonds and building a sense of community,” EKNA representatives shared. They mentioned that while not everyone may visit coffee shops or bars, inclusive businesses can positively impact the neighborhood by welcoming all neighbors.

Philadelphia Brewing Co. (PBC) stands out as a central gathering spot, serving not only as a brewery but also hosting events like karaoke nights, food truck pop-ups, and monthly community meetings. Its picnic-style seating fosters a casual, house-party atmosphere, drawing locals from across the neighborhood.

“It’s rare to go in there and not see someone you know,” Graff said. “It’s a place where you can just give a wave and say hello.”

EKNA Board Members and East Kensington community having their monthly meeting at Philadelphia Brewing Company.(Flores/PN)

Beyond hosting social gatherings, PBC plays a significant role in the neighborhood’s annual Kinetic Arts Derby, selling beer to raise funds for the event.

“Philadelphia Brewing Co. has always been a huge supporter, from hosting our monthly meetings to providing beer for fundraisers. They’re more than a business—they’re a part of the community,” EKNA representatives noted.

Fostering Social Ties and Affordability

Restaurants like OG Pizza show how local eateries create social ties among residents, bridging gaps between new and long-time neighbors. Known for its competitively priced menu, OG Pizza has become a neighborhood staple.

“It’s like the neighborhood’s pizza place,” Graff said. “Everyone’s there on a Friday night, picking up their pies. It’s well-priced, accessible, and truly brings people together.”

The team at OG Pizza offers a diverse menu, from Philly-style and Margherita pizzas to their unique General Tso’s Chicken Pizza, catering to the tastes of newer and long-time residents.

“We love getting to know our neighbors while offering them quality, mouth-watering food,” an OG Pizza representative shared on the restaurant’s website.

Newer establishments like Little Walter’s—a Polish-American bar and restaurant—are also making a mark. Open since June, the 32-seat venue earned a spot on The New York Times’ 50 Favorite Places in America Right Now. Chef-owner Michael Brenfleck’s creative take on Polish classics and commitment to locally sourced ingredients have drawn both locals and visitors.

Little Walter’s has also shown a dedication to community by addressing residents’ concerns. After feedback about menu prices, Brenfleck launched a daily happy hour with $9 cocktails like the Piłkarz (pickle juice martini) and $5 beer and wine. Affordable bites, including Pierogi Ruskie ($6) and Pickle Popcorn ($4), further reflect a commitment to inclusivity.

“Little Walter’s has woven itself into the community fabric,” Graff said. “It’s not just a business strategy—it’s a way to connect.”

Rising Costs and Gentrification

Demographic Information. (Flores)

As East Kensington transformed, it became a hub of growing diversity and economic revitalization. The River Wards District Plan highlighted a steady influx of Latino, Black, and Asian residents, contributing to the area’s cultural richness. 15% of Philadelphia’s population was foreign-born, a shift reflected in East Kensington’s evolving identity. Local businesses, such as Lee’s Dumplings, a popular takeout spot on North Front Street, embodied this cultural diversity

“Our business is welcoming to everyone,” owner Gally Lee said. “We take pride in feeding quality, freshly made food to all residents, no matter where they come from.” Restaurants like this became especial take-out hubs, bridging the gap between longtime residents and newcomers.

Demographic trends in East Kensington showed stability across most age groups over the past 30 years, with populations under 20 and those between 20 and 64 either growing or remaining steady. However, the senior population, those 65 and older, declined by more than 40% since 1980. 

Economy Information. (Flores)

Median household income in ZIP code 19125, which includes parts of East Kensington, rose by 51% to $89,505, reflecting a shift toward a more affluent demographic. The area’s average household income climbed to $115,644, with residents aged 25 to 44 earning the most at $118,412.

Still, affordability became a growing concern as rising demand for housing and smaller household sizes continued to drive up costs.

“Offering something affordable gets harder as rent goes up,” said Graff. “That’s the real force behind gentrification.” The combination of higher demand, smaller households, and the influx of affluent residents positioned East Kensington as an area where rents were likely to rise, mirroring trends in other revitalized urban neighborhoods.

Still, East Kensington and neighboring Fishtown became vibrant cultural centers. The Frankford Avenue corridor thrived as a retail and arts destination, while Kensington and Allegheny avenues maintained strong immigrant influences.

Events like the Trenton Avenue Arts Festival and the Kensington Kinetic Sculpture Derby brought more than 10,000 visitors annually, boosting local businesses and fostering community. Proximity to Center City and the Market-Frankford Line supported arts programming, attracting both residents and nonresidents.

While census data reflected a population decline between 2000 and 2010, the surge in building permits over the past decade painted a different picture. This apparent disconnect was explained by census data’s slower timelines and the trend toward smaller household sizes. These trends, combined with new retail and entertainment opportunities, positioned East Kensington as a desirable destination for businesses and residents alike.

The River Wards District attracted businesses seeking larger, more affordable spaces compared to Center City. This economic activity, supported by reinvestment in commercial corridors like Frankford and Girard avenues, highlighted East Kensington’s growing role as a dynamic, diverse, and economically vital neighborhood in Philadelphia.

Closures Reflect Changing Landscape

Hello Donuts, a beloved spot on Amber Street, will close its doors on December 1 after five years in East Kensington. Originally conceived in a Fishtown coffee shop, Hello Donuts became a community favorite with its coffee-and-donut offerings.

“We’re so sad to be making this difficult decision,” the owners announced on social media. They added that a “Farewell Tour” would celebrate their time in the neighborhood.

For many, the closure of Martha is an even bigger loss. More than just a bar, Martha served as a community hub. Known for its locally sourced ingredients, inventive hoagies, and natural wines, Martha’s cozy, interstellar-inspired setting fostered connections among residents.

“Martha has always had one goal: to give everyone who walks through the doors a great time,” the team shared on its website. Its closure in November has left residents reflecting on the memories made there.

“Rent could likely be a big factor,” Graff said. “I expected to see change in the neighborhood, like more ambitious places coming in, but I didn’t expect it to be so fast—especially losing a fixture like Martha.”

Despite these challenges, organizations like EKNA and the New Kensington Community Development Corporation (NKCDC) continue supporting local businesses. EKNA’s mini-grant program funds local projects that strengthen community ties, while NKCDC advocates for equitable development and affordable housing.

A barista preparing coffee during their daily shift at Forin Café. (Flores/PN)

The Role of Third Spaces in East Kensington

Community-driven businesses act as vital “third spaces”—places beyond home and work where people connect. Philadelphia Brewing Co. (PBC) and Forin Cafe have become neighborhood staples, drawing residents from diverse backgrounds and fostering a sense of community.

“On a good day, you’ll see the picnic tables packed with people, dogs, kids—it just feels like a true community hub,” Graff said. Events hosted by PBC attract families and young professionals alike, creating a welcoming space where connections thrive.

Business owners like Kyle Horne, Seth Kligernman, and Will Landicho at Forin Cafe, along with Gabe Guerrero and Fred Beebe at Post Haste, go beyond profit—they prioritize presence.

“You know when someone’s there every day, they’re more than just a business owner—they’re invested,” Graff said. These hands-on owners build relationships that strengthen neighborhood bonds, offering more than just a meal—they provide a sense of belonging.

“That’s how you build community as a business,” Graff added. “It’s not just about making money. Yes, you want to support yourself and your family, but you also want to be present.” These community-focused businesses create essential connections, offering inclusive, affordable spaces for both new and long-time residents. EKNA prioritizes accessibility through open meetings and initiatives like Pop’s Park and community events, bridging gaps and fostering inclusivity despite gentrification pressures.

By balancing financial goals with a commitment to community, these businesses preserve East Kensington’s authenticity, giving residents a place to gather, connect, and share as the neighborhood evolves.

Please email any questions or concerns about this story to: [email protected]

Be the first to comment

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.


*